CVJ (constant velocity joint) Boots are wear items that need to be checked and occasionally replaced.
6-speed transmissions wear the CV Boots quicker than 5-speed transmissions, because of the more exaggerated angle of the Half Axles due to a higher mounting point of the 6-speed tranny.

The CVJ Boots are easy to inspect visually.  Get under the car and look at the axle connecting each side of the transmission to each rear wheel.  At the ends of the axles you will find the black rubber CV Joint Boots.  These boots need to be in good shape with no cracks, tears or rips.  They are packed with a special CV Joint grease that will leak out when ripped.  If the grease leaks out and the joint goes dry and collects dust, the joint will have to be replaced (not cheap).

Tools Needed:
Sockets (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 32 mm)
Good, long Break Bar for Wheel Center Nut or powerful pneumatic gun (400 ft-lb of torque)
Wrenches (16, 17, 18, 19 mm)
Hydraulic or Mechanical Jack
Jack Stands
Crimping Tool / Wire Cutter
C-Clip Pliers
Joint-Cracking Tool
Torx Bit (size 40)
Assorted screwdrivers and pliers in various sizes
Roll of Paper Towels
Rubber Gloves
“Special” Wheel Center Cap removal tool
  which you can make yourself from a piece
  of clothes hanger wire.  This is how it’s used.

With the car on the ground, place it in 
gear (1st) and pull the parking brake.
Loosen  but don’t remove both of the 
rear axle locking nuts.
These nuts are tightened to 340 ft-lb 
of torque, so you will need a long 
breaker bar or a strong enough 
pneumatic hammer.
It uses a 32 mm socket.
You may have to stand on the breaker 
bar and jump up and down in order to get it lose.

Now raise the car off the ground and place it on sturdy stands (at least on the rear).
Secure the front end with tire wedges so it can’t move forward while you raise the back end.

Remove the rear wheel(s) and axle nut(s).

Remove the Diagonal Cross Braces and 
aluminum skid plate.
Fourteen (14) main fasteners need to be
removed for this.
Each Diagonal Cross Brace has 5 fasteners
(combination of bolts and nuts) and the
Aluminum Plate has 4 more (combination
of bolts and nuts).
The Cross Braces have two additional Phillips
head screws that attach to the plastic under-tray
that also need to be removed for ease of work.

                                                                            Undo the end of the Anti-Sway Bar by
                                                                            removing this nut.

                                                                             Make sure you hold the counter nut
                                                                             (between the sway bar and the drop link)
                                                                             with an open-end wrench, so it doesn’t
                                                                             rotate as you loosen the nut

Undo the ball heads of the toe control arm
and the axle strut.

You’ll need to use the joint-breaking tool.
Be careful that you do not damage the
rubber dust seals on the joints.

Remove the bolts from the drive shaft flange (hex 8 mm).  
It will help if you use a ratchet-mounted 8 mm hex drive
with a 9” extension and universal joint at the end.
You will need to press against the CV Boot’s side in 
order to get the hex to fit the bolt head.
It may also be easier to rotate the axle so that you
can position the bolt head in an accessible place.
To do this, place the transmission in neutral and 
release the handbrake.

In order to have enough clearance,
pull the wheel carrier assembly out
towards you and hold it out by propping
it with a piece of 2” x 4” lumber
between the inner wheel well and the
inner edge of the brake rotor.

Now you will be able to remove the 
half-axle by yourself without danger of 
damaging the end or hurting yourself

                                                                                With the added clearance you can slide 
                                                                                the drive axle off the flange.

                                                                                It may be necessary to tap the end of the axle
                                                                                with mallet using a piece of wood to protect
                                                                               the end from damage.

Because I was working by myself , some pictures could not be taken, so I substituted with drawings.

You can now maneuver the complete
half-axle out of the car.  Make sure you
don’t damage the end cap.

I generally wrap the end in a rag or other
protective material before I remove the
half-axle from the vehicle, just in case.

The first picture is of the transmission’s flange after removing the half-axle.  The second (above) is of the half-axle’s end cap.

Here’s where it will start to get dirty (greasy).

I recommend using rubber gloves and having
plenty of paper towels handy as well as a
trash bag or garbage container.

Place the removed half-axle securely on a vise.

Carefully tap off the end cap using a piece
of wood or plastic bar in order not to damage it.
I prefer to replace this part with an new one
whenever I replace a CV Joint Boot.
It’s relatively inexpensive.


                                                                                                           Clean off the grease as best
                                                                                                           as possible from the CV Joint
                                                                                                           and end cap if you are going
                                                                                                           to reuse it.

                                                                                                           In the photo (left) you can also
                                                                                                           see the C-Clip pliers needed
                                                                                                           for the next step.

Remove the 
C-Clip (Snap 
Ring) from the 
end of the 
half-axle using 
the special pliers.

Remove the old CV Joint Boot Clamps
and pull back the Boot (towards the
other end of the half-shaft).

Tap out the Inner CV Joint, using a
piece of wood or plastic in order not
to damage it.

Slide the two old CV Joint Boots off the half-axle.

Wipe off grease as best as possible.

Slide the new outer CV Joint Boot on the half-axle.  
Take into account that the large opening should slide 
in first.

Slide the inner CV Joint Boot on the half-axle.  Now the small opening slides in first.

Place the clean CV Joint onto 
the end of the half-axle and
secure with a new C-Clip 
(Snap Ring).

Carefully tap into place the
inner metal end cap, or better
yet, replace with a new one.
Make sure it does not get 
bent or kinked.  Tap softly
around the edges using a piece
of soft wood so that you don’t
damage the cap.  I use a piece
of aluminum tube large enough
to clear the center.

Pack the Inner CV Joint with Optimoly HT Grease (on both sides of the CV Joint) and slide the Boot in place.  In order to get the boot to slide easier onto the flange of the CV Joint, rub a little grease on the edge of the flange.  You may also have to use a screwdriver blade to help you place the boot opening onto the flange.

Repeat the above steps for the outer CV Joint Boot.

There are two types of CV Joint Clamps available.
One is the crimp type (shown) and the other is a
simple slide-through-and-bend-back.
Either type must fit snug and secure so that the 
CV Joint Boot makes a good seal against the
half-shaft and no grease leaks out.

If using the crimp style, put the clamps in place,
close them by hand as much as possible.
It may help to reshape the end of the clamp
so it conforms with the size and shape of the boot
and the base of the clamp.
Once the clamp is tight by hand you can crimp
using (dulled-edge) wire-cutting pliers.

Repeat the above procedure for all the additional 

If using the pull-through type, pull the clamp through
end opening of the base of the clamp and bend back
for securing.

On the inner CV Joint end, make sure that the crimp 
falls between to bolt openings and won’t interfere with
bolt placement .

Clean the six hex head bolts and slide in place
without forgetting the spacers.
Place a drop of Locktite or similar on the bolt
threads on the end.

Insert the completed Half-Axle in place.

Mate and tighten the inner CV Joint to the transmission flange.
Tighten bolts by hand first, and the torque in star pattern.
Finish tightening to a torque of 30 ft-lb (40 Nm).

Repeat for the second half-axle if necessary.

Now would be the perfect time to install a new
 technoBrace™.  The technoBrace™, as you 
can see in the photo, ties together the lower rear suspension 
making the car handle better during tight turns under power,
such as the conditions encountered during Auto Cross and 
Driver Education events.
The technoBrace™ does not alter the drivability of the
car and can be left in place permanently.
For installation instructions click on the photo at right.

Now you can install the aluminum skid plate.  
Secure it loosely with the two forward bolts and two rear nuts.  Do not tighten yet.

Install the two Diagonal Braces.

Tighten all the hardware according to specs:
• Aluminum Skid Plate to Rear Axle Support (M10 Bolt): 34 ft-lb (46 Nm)
• Aluminum Skid Plate to Support / Suspension (M10 Nut): 48 ft-lb (65 Nm)
• Diagonal Brace to Body / Suspension: 48 ft-lb (65 Nm)

Lower the car to the ground 
and install a new Axle Nut.
Do not reuse the original.

With the hand brake engaged
tighten the new axle nut to a
torque of 340 ft-lb (460 Nm)
using a large breaker bar or
a strong enough pneumatic

Go for a test drive and make sure
all is well.

Happy Boxstering,

you did-it-Yourself
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