One of the most requested DIY projects is Painting your Brake Calipers.
All of the Porsche “S” models come with the RED painted calipers, those lucky enough to have the PCCB (Porsche Ceramic Composite Brakes) option have YELLOW calipers, some special edition models came with SILVER calipers, and the rest are supplied with the bland BLACK calipers.
Caliper color is now a form of personalizing the car.  You can choose any color you like to contrast or compliment your car’s color.

Although some people have gone to the expense of having their calipers Powder-Coated, you can get excellent results by doing it yourself.

When painting the calipers yourself, unless you have an industrial Powder-Coating Oven, there are two options: Epoxy-based paints or Engine Enamel (high-temp paint).

I have tested every one of the options and my personal preference is the Engine Enamel.  It is MUCH easier to use than the expoxy-based paints and with a final clearcoat will last as just as long.

Below you can see my car’s rear caliper painted in Chevy Orange Enamel from Duplicor.

Tools and materials needed:
•  Jack and Stands
•  Wheel lug wrench
•  Needle-nose Pliers
•  Ratchet with 10 mm hex 
•  Flare Nut Wrench (10 & 11 mm)
•  Vise Grips or Clamps
•  Scribe Tool
•  12” section of clear tubing 1/4” ID
•  Masking Tape
•  Brake Cleaner Solution
•  2 cans of  your choice color Engine Enamel
•  1 can of Hi-Temp Clear Coat
•  Vinyl adhesive logo (PORSCHE, Brembo, etc.)
•  Protective Gloves

First start by safely raising your car on 4 sturdy

Plan on the car being there for at least a couple o
days.  Depending on your local climate conditions
the drying time between coats will vary, but figure 
2 hours between coats.

                                                                                  Remove the four wheels 

                                                                                  Now you need to remove the calipers, but first
                                                                                  the brake pads need to be removed.

                                                                                  When working on the front tires it’s easier if you
                                                                                  turn the wheel so that the caliper faces you giving
                                                                                  you better access

Using a pair of regular or needle-nose
plier, pull the safety pin holding the caliper
spring pin. 

Once the pin is out, depress the caliper
spring and push back the pin.
You may need to gently tap it back.

With the pin out, remove the spring and pull
out the brake pads.

                                                                                               I like to keep a clean plastic parts bin to 
                                                                                               keep all my parts together.

You can leave the  brake sensors connected 
on the pads, and the pads hanging.

In order to remove the pads you may have to 
pry back the caliper pistons.

You can use a piece of wood or a screwdriver
to push the pad against the caliper and force
the pistons to retract, thereby loosening the
grip on the pads.

With the pads out, you can now remove the caliper.  It is held in place with two 10 mm hex bolts.
It’s easier if you use a ratchet, but if not, available a 10 mm allen wrench will work.  Leave one of the bolts to loosely hold the caliper in place for the next step.

In order not to damage the ends of the brake
lines, you need a flare nut wrench like the one
shown at right.
You will need a 10mm an 11mm and in some 
cases a 12mm to get the job done.

                                                                                          Cut four (4) lengths of  tubing each
                                                                                          about 5 inches long.                                                                                             
                                                                                          The dimension is not critical.

Bend one end of one of the pieces of tubing
back over itself and hold in place with vise
grips, clamps, rubber bands or similar.

                                                                                          Now remove the flare nut which secures the
                                                                                          hard brake line to the back of the caliper.
                                                                                          Some brake fluid will come out so place a
                                                                                          pan underneath to collect and as son as 
                                                                                          the brake line comes out ...

... use the piece of folded-over tubing to plug it.
This way you stop the dripping of brake fluid.

                                                                                          The reason you don’t want to have brake
                                                                                           brake fluid all over the place is because it
                                                                                           can damage paint if left on it for some time.

                                                                                           If you do spill some. wipe off with a paper
                                                                                           towel moistened in water.  
                                                                                           You can rinse it off with water.

Because the front and rear calipers are different
in order not to confuse them I like to mark each
one with a scribe.

This one, for instance is the Right Front (RF).
Since I remove all the hardware from the caliper
I also mark the side of the where the
hard line is located (arrow). That’s the bottom end.

Now, remove the bleed nipples and the hard line
from the caliper.
So that paint or cleaner doesn’t get into the inside of the caliper I plug each orifice with a plastic wire connector.  Since it’s plastic, you can tightly screw them in place and they will seal perfectly. 

It’s easier if you prepare all four calipers at once.
So go now and repeat the previously described procedure three more times.

After you have all 4 calipers prepped, it’s time to clean them.
Use brake cleaning solution or a degreaser and a small soft brush to get all the brake dust, grime and brake fluid from the surface of the calipers.  Make sure that no residue remains prior to painting.
It’s recommended that you use gloves, because it’s a messy job and the brake cleaner can affect sensitive skin. (Sorry, no pictures).

I also don’t like to paint the inner part of the calipers (where the pistons are located) so I mask off the area completely.  If you want to paint the inner part, just mask off the piston dust seals (4 on each caliper - 2 on each side).   I apologize for the lack of photos, but I lost some files.  You’ll be able to clearly see what I mean in the the un-masking photos which follow.

The electrical connector fits so tightly that you can hang the caliper from it while painting and drying.
Depending on the time you’ve alloted and the quality of your finished product, wait until the first coat is dry (depending on conditions 2-4 hours) give it a light wet-sanding, dry and apply a second coat.
Repeat as many times as you wish.  I’ve found that 3-5 coats will give a long-lasting professional finish.
Remember that light, even coats are better than heavy coats.

After the final coat of paint has
dried, it’s time to remove the
masking tape from the areas
that you protected.

Now it’s time to replace the plumbing hardware on the calipers.
Remove the electrical connectors and replace the bleed nipples and connecting tubes.  Make sure that each go in their correct locations.  When the caliper is mounted, the bleed nipples are at the highest part of the caliper while the connecting line is at the lowest.

If you want to be able to perfectly
center the logo stickers lightly spray
a soapy water solution on the
caliper’s surface.

Peel off the backing material from
the caliper logo sticker and place 
on the caliper.

You will be able to slide the sticker 
for a perfect alignment.

Once it’s centered in the desired 
position, squeegee out any air 
bubbles and or soapy solution
with a credit card or similar.

Give it some time to set and finally 
peel off the top protective top layer.

The calipers are now ready for a
coat or two of clear coat.

                                                                                                                        Mount the calipers using
                                                                                                                        the reverse procedure and
                                                                                                                        flush the hydraulic system.

                                                                                                                            Click here for flushing DIY

This is what my calipers look like now.

Happy Boxstering,

you did-it-Yourself
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 When painting calipers in this manner (by removing the  caliper) you will need to flush  new brake fluid as the last step.
Instructions for flushing are included.